Frequently Asked Questions
Buying A Bow & Accessories
Returns, Defects & Exchanges
Compound archery is a form of archery that involves the use of compound bows, which differ significantly from recurve bows. Compound bows feature a multi-string and cable design connected to proprietary cams that serve as the "wheels" at the top and bottom of the bow and connect to the limbs. They also come equipped with cable guards, cable stops, and are designed for use with arrow rests and sights.
The cam and riser design are the most distinguishable differences between modern compound bows. The design and shape of the cam affects the feel and speed of the bow and may offer different adjustments. Some bows offer a wide range of adjustments to draw length and weight, while others, such as high-end target compound bows, offer fewer adjustments and assume the archer knows their exact measurements.
Compound bows come in two main types: target and hunting. Both require the use of an arrow rest and sights. Hunting bows are typically shorter and offer higher speeds, more let-off, and higher draw weights. Target bows are longer, provide a smoother draw, slightly slower speed, more holding weight, and greater stability.
When choosing a bow, it's important to consider the type of archery you plan to do. For beginners, a bow with a wide range of adjustments is recommended as it allows for gradual increase in draw weight and fine-tuning of draw length.
Olympic Recurve Archery is a widely recognized and practiced form of competitive archery worldwide, with roots in the classic recurve bow and boosted by its presence in the Olympics and World Archery competitions.
Olympic Recurve bows come in two parts, the riser and the limbs. Risers are made of aluminum or carbon fiber while limbs come in different styles using foam, graphene, wood, carbon, or fiberglass sandwiched in carbon.
Risers and limbs are designed to fit together using the ILF (International Limb Fitting) or Formula (Hoyt) systems. It's essential to keep in mind that the ILF and Formula systems are not interchangeable - ILF limbs won't fit a Formula riser and vice versa. ILF is more popular and offers more options.
Risers are available in 23, 25, or 27 inches, while limbs come in short, medium, or long lengths. The combination of these sizes determines the length of the bow. It is crucial to be correctly fitted by a professional to determine the ideal size for you as incorrect sizing may affect your scores and performance.
In Olympic Recurve Archery, equipment must be used with a clicker, recurve sight, finger sling, string, front and rear stabilizers, and an arrow rest. Beginners should consult with a local pro shop to ensure a proper setup and fitting. Olympic Recurve Archery is not a self-setup sport for those new to the sport.
Traditional archery is a style of archery that is often portrayed in paintings, movies, and other forms of media. These bows are typically made from either wood or synthetic materials and come in either one-piece or takedown versions. The one-piece bow is made to specific specifications and its draw weight is determined by the archer's draw length and the overall size of the bow.
Takedown bows, on the other hand, are popular because they allow the archer to change the limbs for different poundages and offer the convenience of portability. However, it's important to note that the limbs and risers may not conform to ILF standards and may limit the ability to use different brands in combination.
The arrow used with a traditional bow must be designed specifically for this style of archery, with feathers or vanes such as "AAE Trad vanes". Synthetic vanes used in Olympic style recurve or compound archery will not work because they will come into contact with the riser during the shot.
Contrary to popular belief, wooden arrows are not necessary for traditional bows. There are now a wide range of carbon arrow options available that work with traditional bows. Wooden arrows are only recommended if the manufacturer's quality can be guaranteed.
Traditional bows are considered the purest form of archery and can be challenging to master without any accessories or assistance. For beginners, it's recommended to start with a takedown bow, which allows for the ability to change limbs and increase draw weight as the archer improves. A takedown bow is also a great entry-level option as it opens the door to all types of recurve archery, including Olympic and barebow.
Barebow archery is a traditional style of archery that has gained popularity in recent years. Unlike modern archery, which often involves the use of sights, stabilizers, and other mechanical aids, barebow archery relies solely on the archer's skill and ability to shoot accurately. The term "barebow" refers to the absence of any such aids, as the bow is essentially used "bare."
Barebow archers shoot with a recurve bow, which has limbs that curve away from the archer when unstrung. This design allows the bow to store more energy and release it more efficiently, giving the arrow a flatter trajectory and increased speed. The lack of mechanical aids means that barebow archers must rely on their own instincts, form, and practice to shoot accurately.
For many barebow archers, the sport is not just about hitting the bullseye, but also about the challenge and connection to the sport's roots. Barebow archery harkens back to the traditional forms of archery that have been used for centuries for hunting and warfare. By practicing barebow archery, archers can experience a sense of nostalgia and a connection to the past, while also honing their skills and improving their accuracy.
Despite its lack of mechanical aids, barebow archery is a challenging and rewarding sport that requires a great deal of skill and practice. Whether you are a seasoned archer or just starting out, barebow archery is a great way to experience the sport in its purest form and connect with the rich history of archery.
One of the most common mistakes when beginners purchase their first bow is buying the wrong hand.
- A right handed bow means the bow is held in your left hand and the string is pulled with your right hand. This allows the string to align with your right eye.
- A left handed bow means the bow is held in your right hand and the string is pulled with your left hand. Allowing the string to align with your left eye.
The handedness of the bow is in relation to the hand/arm that draws the string, not the hand that holds the bow.
Another common misconception is people feel they should be buying a bow that allows them to pull with their dominant hand.
In reality you want to purchase a bow that corresponds to your eye dominance. This allows you to have better accuracy and an easier time shooting with both eyes open.
Most people who are right handed will be right eye dominant, and most people who are left handed will be left eye dominant. However this is just a general rule.
Of every 10 bows we sell and setup for customers, at least one will be opposite eye dominant. Meaning they will be right handed but their dominant eye is their left eye.
We always recommend purchasing a bow based on your eye dominance. It may feel awkward at first but in the long run it will pay off significantly.
There are easy tesats you can do to find out your eye dominance. A simple search on youtube for "archery eye dominance test" will result in a simple test youy can do in about 10 secods to figure it out. If you come to our pro shop we will always do it for you prior to purchasing your first bow.
A lot of people think they need to buy a string based on the length of their previous string or their bow length while it is strung. This is not the case. Bow sizes and string lengths are based on a standard known as AMO. AMO is a standardized set of measurements for archery bows, strings and equipment.
For example, if your bow has an AMO length of 60 inches, when strung it will typically be 57 inches due to the curve in the bow limbs and the string it uses will also be 57 inches in length.
The string you need for your bow will typically be 3 to 4 inches shorter than your bow's unstrung length, depending on the bow's type.
When purchasing a bowstring, string manufacturers have already taken it into account. When purchasing a bowstring, you want to match the two AMO sizes. If it is labelled as 60 inch AMO bowstring it means it fits a 60 inch AMO bow, which means the string itself will be around 57 inches.
For example, if you purchase a 60" AMO Samick Sage, you can buy a 60 inch AMO string, and it will fit your bow. The string itself will be 57 inches which is what fits a 60 inch AMO bow
Bowstring will always be listed by AMO length, not actual string length, which leads to confusion among new archers. If you were to measure your recurve string at 57 inch and buy an AMO 57 string, the AMO 57 string would be three inches shorter at 54 inches in total length.
Almost all traditional recurve bows sold by Canada Archery will have the AMO length listed on the box or limbs. For Olympic Recurve equipment, you will typically already know the AMO length of your bow, which is usually between 64 and 70 inches long. This depends on how long your riser is bolt to bolt, in combination with if you have chosen to use short, medium or long limbs. It can be tricky for custom-made bows unless the bow maker gives you the AMO length. Normally, you would measure the old string that came with the bow and add 3 to 3.5 inches to get its AMO size.
We encourage you to mail us if you have trouble before purchasing to avoid buying the wrong string.
At Canada Archery, we recommend purchasing a draw weight you feel comfortable shooting repeatedly.
We have many customers who come in and want to purchase the heaviest draw weight bow they can for the money. We highly recommend against this until you are a more experienced archer.
Archery is a skill that takes form, technique, and time to master. You want to purchase a bow based on what you feel you can pull back and shoot at least fifty times in a row without becoming fatigued. Just because you may see a particular hunter, Olympian, or influencer pulling back an 80lb compound bow doesn't mean you should be doing the same as a beginner.
Let us use weight lifting as an example. If you have never weight trained before, you wouldn't go out and buy 90lb non-adjustable dumbbells or try to squat 400lb on your first attempt. You need to build your body, form, and technique before progressing. Otherwise, your form will suffer, and in archery, your accuracy will never get better. You will never progress if you are exhausted, and your arms are burning after pulling your bow a few times.
This means you need a plan to slowly improve your form and increase the draw weight of your bow over time.
We recommend compound archers start with an adjustable cam bow that can go down to around 50lbs but allow increased weight over time as your form becomes better. Very high draw weight bows are used by hunters who shoot one or two arrows in an entire day. As a beginner or while shooting tournaments, nobody is shooting hunting weights.
We recommend starting at 20 or 25 pounds for new recurve archers since they are holding more weight than a compound bow while at full draw. Once you gain experience and form, you can easily swap out limbs for higher draw weight.
One thing we hate to see is someone buy a brand new bow, get highly excited then realize they are too tired to practice for even half an hour.
Your draw length is how far your bow is drawn back. This will typically dictate what size bow you buy or how your compound bow is adjusted for optimal string angel and anchor positioning.
A simple way to find a rough estimate of your draw length is as follows.
While within arm distance from a wall.
1. Stand your your feet shoulder width apart.
2. Stick your arms out and make a T shape with your body.
3. Make a fist with the hand that will hold the bow (left hand for righ handed bow, right hand for left handed bow).
4. Shuffle towards the wall and place the fist on the wall.
5. Now look over your shoulder down the length of your arm.
6. Have someone measure from the wall to the corner of your mouth.
This is a rough estimate on finding out your draw length. It is important to never overestimate your draw length. What matters most is accuracy of the measurement, not how long your draw length is.
John Dudley from Nock On archery has a good video about finding out your rough draw length as a beginner.
Draw length will determine what compound bow you buy and how it is adjusted. For recurve archers it helps give you an idea on the length of bow you can purchase.
Brace height is the distance between your string while at rest and the deepest part of your riser handle.
Brace height is an essential part of tuning and adjusting any recurve bow. Brace Height is adjusted by adding or subtracting twists from your string, which will close or increase the gap between the bowstring and the throat of your riser.
The brace height can be different depending on your recurve archery style. Most manufacturers will have documentation on their recommended brace height.
It is always important to use a T square to check your brace height before shooting.
Adding twists to a string will shorten the length of the bowstring, which makes the limbs bend more, increasing the brace height. Removing twists from the bowstring adds length and relaxes the limbs, drawing the string closer.
Brace Height in compound archery is set from the factory and indicated on the manufacturers' specification sheet. Shorter brace heights are seen on "speed bows" and more extended brace heights on tournament bows. Shorter brace heights increase the speed and aggression of a bow, while a longer brace height makes the bow more stable, less aggressive, and slightly slower.
Compound bows will typically have two different styles of sights—each with its variations.
Target sights are typically those used exclusively for tournament and target style archery. They often do not come with scopes, have dovetail style mounting bar systems, and are designed to be easily adjustable at the cost of durability. Longer sight bars mean you can fine tune the optimal distance the scope will sit away from your peep to ensure a perfect sight picture. Target sights will also have finer micro-adjustments and are designed to be adjusted on the fly.
Hunting compound sights most oftenb come with a permanent X-frame style mount for a more robust and durable package. Some higher-end hunting sights will also offer an optional dovetail bar system. Most hunting sights will come with a scope. Depending on the sight you purchased, the scope may or may not be included or removable.
Hunting scopes are often designed to house multiple pins, unlike target sights, and have more limited adjustments than those intended for target setups.
Many hunting sights are designed to be setup once and not adjusted further until you change your equipment. This means many models do not offer the same fine micro adjusts as their target equivalent. Sights with multiple pins will also require the user to adjust each pin individually for specific distances.
It is advised to use a sight that fits your particular need. If you plan to hunt, buy a hunting sight. If you plan to shoot tournaments, a target one.
Target sights are not intended to hunt with as their durability and size make them less appealing to bring into the woods, a tree stand or blind.
The scope you purchase for target sights will typically be smaller in diameter and have only one pin, sticker dot or aiming reticle. This makes shots taken at different distances more time consuming and less consistent than a hunting sight with multiple pins dialed into specific distances beforehand.
Some archers shoot Hunting sights in tournaments but only in "hunter" divisions.
Recurve Sights are designed almost exclusively for Olympic Style ILF or Grand Prix risers.
It is not advised to try and add a sight to a wooden riser or any traditional style bow. Traditional bows are designed to be shot bare, which means without accessories. Aiming with a traditional bow can be done in three ways. Instinctive (like throwing a baseball), string walking, or gap shooting.
For Olympic-style recurve archery, you will need a sight. Recurve sights require small scopes or apertures and offer significant fine adjustments.
Unlike compound target sights, most recurve sights will come with a scope/aperture included.
The price difference will typically dictate the overall adjustability of the sight, the consistency of its distances, and overall build quality.
If you are a complete beginner, we advise saving your money and purchasing a moderately priced target sight. Although the flagship target sights may be more durable and consistent, you will notice no difference in your scores until you become more experienced. Only once you reach a higher level of archery will the fine adjustments, increased micro-adjustability, and other options be noticeable.
Peeps are accessories that fit into the bowstring of a compound bow. The purpose of a peep is to allow you to more accurately aim your bow by splitting the string and giving you a clear sight picture directly down the middle. While at full draw, the peep should align and "halo" the outside diameter of your scope. Allowing you as an archer to know the alignment of your string is exactly in line with the scope on your sight.
Peeps typically come in a few varieties. Designed for both hunting and target shooting the peep you decide to choose will be determined by what you want to do with it.
Hunting peeps are normally without magnification or significant adjustability, and they are commonly sold in specific aperture sizes. You choose the aperture size of the peep so it perfectly halos your scope while at full draw.
Target peeps offer a more comprehensive range of adjustments. Many target peeps allow the addition of clarifiers, verifiers, and aperture sizes.
Clarifiers are small pieces of optical glass that can be used in the peep to clear up the sight picture of your scope while using a powered lens. Verifiers are used to clear up the overall sight picture and pins. Typically verifiers are used most often for those who require glasses. Apertures increase or reduce the inside diameter of your peep so it can perfectly encircle your scope housing.
Peep kits, such as the Hamskea Insight kit or Specialty Archery Podium Peep kit, will come with various apertures, clarifiers, and the peeps themselves. These are great all-around options for archers who enjoy experimenting. Flagship peeps and kits can be used for both hunting and target archery.
It is rare for Hunters to use a clarifier as these pieces of glass are used in conjunction with a powered lens located within the scope. Using a powered lens is illegal for hunting in most of North America.
Peeps also come in at least two different string angles, which refers to the grooves machined into the peep that hold it into place on the bowstring. Some higher-end peeps will have the grooves machined into them for all string angles, while lower or mid-range peeps will need to be purchased for the archer's exact string angle.
The usual angles are 37/45 degrees. The degree you need will depend on the bow you are shooting and your draw length. Each peep manufacturer will have charts you can follow to determine which you need to use. Most archers will be fine with 37 degrees, but those with shorter draw lengths and taller bows will need 45 or more. Check the manufacturer's website to view their charts before purchasing.
As the name states, stabilizers are pieces of equipment used to stabilize your bow while at full draw. They also have the added advantage of lowering the vibration and shock after a shot.
Stabilizers are made out of carbon and come in different lengths, sizes, and threads. Choosing a stabilizer that best suits your needs as an archer is essential.
Target archers use long stabilizers in front of their bow, with shorter side rods acting as a counterbalance. These side rods may be located pointing backward on both sides using a V-bar mount or off to one side using an offset mount. Weights are typically added to the ends of these stabilizers to help reduce pin float while at full draw.
Hunters use shorter stabilizers both in front of their bow and sometimes off to one side. The shorter length makes it easier to maneuver in the woods or hunting environments while still providing significant benefits over shooting bare.
Some target archers shoot V-bars, which allow them to have one stabilizer in the front and two side rods pointing backward on both sides. Others use only a single back rod with an offset mount.
While tuning your stabilizer setup, you may need quick disconnects, offset mounts, and V-Bar mounts. These attach to your bow and allow the easy removal of your stabilizer with the added benefit of fine-tuning the angle they sit at.
When tuning your stabilizer setup, the goal is to choose weights and angles for each stabilizer that allows your bow to sit perfectly still and level while at full draw. Compound archers should pay attention to the level in their scope and ensure it remains level while having no torque on the bow's handle. If it doesn't, adjust the stabilizer weight and angles until it does.
It is important to remember changing your stabilizer setup once your bow is fully tuned may change the tune of the bow and require you to adjust it again. We recommend ensuring your stabilizer setup is perfect before fully tuning your bow.
Recurve clickers are accessories that attach to the riser or limb of a recurve bow. A clicker helps with the timing of the archers shot by clicking at the exact moment they should release their arrow. Since a recurve bow changes its draw weight the more it has been drawn back, the clicker helps with consistency and muscle memory.
Clickers may attach to the limb or riser of a recurve bow, depending on the type of clicker purchased. Virtually all modern clickers attach to the archers' riser and are designed to come into contact with the clicker plate that comes on modern ILF and Grand Prix bows. Only traditional archers will use clickers that attach to their bow's top limb since traditional bows do not come with clicker plates or mounting options for modern clickers.
With modern target archery and clickers mounted to the riser, the clicker rests on the arrow, and as the bow is drawn back, the moment it exceeds the length of the arrow, it slams down, contacting the clicker plate. This action creates the "click" sound, which indicates you are at optimal release. Using a riser mounted clicker requires your arrows to be cut to the perfect length, often just before the front of the riser. Arrows that are too long will cause your clicker to remain rested on the arrow. Arrows that are too short mean the clicker will go off before you are at your optimal draw length.
Limb mounted clickers are used by traditional archers. Since traditional bows do not come with clicker plates or mounting options, clickers are sold that attach to the top limb of the bow. They serve the same purpose as riser mounted clickers, but they work slightly differently. With a limb mounted clicker, it activates when you get to a specific draw length and has nothing to do with the arrow. It is adjusted by increasing or reducing the length of the cable that attaches from your string to your clicker. It is essential while setting up a limb mounted clicker, you are at full draw, with an arrow nocked, while taking measurements for the length of the clicker cable.
Traditional archers can become proficient without using a clicker, but Olympic style target archers cannot. A clicker is an essential accessory for all aspiring target archers.
Quivers hold arrows, but the style of quiver you choose is essential.
Quivers come in the following styles: field quiver, target quiver, bow mounted quiver, pocket quiver, and back quiver.
Field Quiver - field quivers work with a belt and rest on the archer's hip. These styles of quivers are the most popular in target archery. Field quivers are often slim in design and hold your arrows so they are pointing in a backward direction. This makes accessing your arrows easier while also aiding in safety. If you were to trip and fall, arrows pointing backwards are less likely to result in an injury.
Target Quiver - target quivers are similar to field quivers with a few exceptions. Although they sit on your hip, they are often slightly larger with extra pockets. They also force your arrows to point forward. Both field and target quivers are used exclusively for archery practice and tournament settings.
Bow Mounted Quiver - bow mounted quivers are designed for hunting. They come in a wide variety of mounting options. Most are also compatible with the storage of broadheads and are an essential part of any hunter's kit. Bow mounted quivers exist for both traditional archers and compound archers, although they will be made specifically for that style of archery. They secure the arrow both at the top and toward the bottom and are very secure. Attaching to the bow allows easy maneuvering while hunting without the added noise of arrows rattling in a hip or back quiver.
Back Quiver - back quivers are used most by traditional archers for practice and tournaments who find hip quivers too cumbersome or not appealing. Back quivers are mainly an aesthetic choice and come with various drawbacks. Including not being able to see the arrow you plan to nock before pulling it from the quiver and potential safety risks if you were to trip and fall. Some compound archers who do huge outdoor events which comprise many target spread out over a large area will even use backpacks as makeshift quivers due to the ease of transporting the arrows. It is not recommended to ever use a back quiver for hunting or with broadheads.
Pocket Quivers - pocket quivers sit in the back pocket of your pants, often jeans and are designed to be a very slim and sleek way of holding a few arrows. Pocket quivers are the least popular and not often used outside of practice. They have limited capacity, can often need breaking in and come with a variety of risks if you were to trip and fall. Mainly used by traditional archers, a pocket quiver may be a great way to get practicing quickly but are not recommended for hunting or tournament settings. With their limited capacity and lack of ability to hold broadheads, these quivers are the most limited.
It is essential to understand what type of archery you plan to take part in and buy a quiver that will work best.
Finger and wrist slings are optional accessories used in compound and recurve archery.
Due to the way you grip the handle of a bow by not applying any finger pressure, some archers feel more confident while using a sling. The sling ensures that you will not drop your bow after the shot.
A sling often helps your mind realize it shouldn't immediately grip the riser of the bow when the shot has been fired, giving you a more relaxed release, helping improve accuracy for some archers.
Finger slings are widely used in Olympic style recurve archery. Since Olympic style target shooting uses larger bows that tend to swing forward after a shot. A finger slings helps with a smooth follow-through and offers security for the bow.
Wrist slings are commonly seen in compound archery. However, since compound bows release an arrow so quickly, and the bows are significantly shorter than recurve ones, many archers opt not to use a wrist or finger sling.
We recommend all new archers start with a finger or wrist sling, depending on the style of archery you plan to perform. Once a compound archer becomes confident in their grip and hand placement, they can opt to forgo the option of a wrist sling. Finger slings are recommended for all archers competing in target style recurve archery.
Canada Archery Online does not dictate or have any influence over the shipping times of products once processed. Once a package has been handed off to the selected shipping carrier, the speed at which it arrives is no longer under Canada Archery's control.
If your package does not arrive within the shipping carriers outlined window, please contact us. We will do our best to remedy the situation with the shipping carrier.
You may contact us at help@canadaarcheryonline; include a brief description of the problem along with your name, order number and any other relevant information such as tracking number.
Online orders placed at Canada Archery Online may take up to three days to process. Holidays, operating hours and product availability impact these times. Due to shipping restrictions on weekends and holidays, it is difficult to predict exactly when an order will be processed.
Online orders are treated with priority and processed five days per week.
Free Shipping is a limited time promotion Canada Archery Online is offering customers on all orders over $200. Free shipping does not include oversized items, such as longbows, bags, and any other product that may exceed Canada Post's oversized threshold. These products are subject to an oversized shipping charge upon checkout.
Territories and some remote areas are also not eligible for free shipping.
Free shipping using CAO points does not include free shipping of oversized items.
Free shipping is typically regular parcel and not expedited.
We offer $3 to $5 letter mail shipping for small items under $30 as a convenience to our customers. Due to Canada Post's regulations no version of letter mail within that price range comes with tracking.
We strongly recommend you use a shipping option with tracking if the saftey of your item is priority.
We currently ship to the United States of America via a cross border shipping service. Once your package arrives in America it will typically be handled by USPS. Occasionally we may use DHL. We recommend American customers check their local bow shops first.
Delays can happen at the border, and we are not responsible for any missing, lost or packages held by American border services.
We cannot guarantee our shipping department will be able to combine orders. Some orders may be combined at our discretion and is not a guarantee.
We welcome the return or exchange of unused items in their original packaging. Our experienced and well-trained staff will carefully inspect all items to ensure their quality. If the item is found to be used, damaged, or not defective, it will not be accepted for return.
Please note that certain items, such as complete bows, limbs, arrows, target faces, strings, and more, will undergo particularly strict scrutiny. This policy also applies to discontinued items, clearance products, and items that are custom-made to order.
If your item is defective, we will replace it through the warranty process. If you receive a defective item or it arrives broken, please refer to the "defective" section of our policy.
We do not accept returns on any item marked as a "special order item," unless it is defective.
You have 60 days from the date of purchase to return your items. If you make a return within the first 30 days, you can choose between a refund or store credit. If you return your items between 31 to 60 days after purchase, you are only eligible for store credit. Returns must be made in-store, and you will receive a refund or store credit for the exact amount you paid originally. Refunds can only be issued using the original payment method. Unfortunately, returns made after 60 days are not eligible for refund or store credit.
You have 60 days from the shipping date to return or exchange your items. If you return your items within the first 30 days, you may choose between a refund or store credit. If you return your items between 31 to 60 days after the shipping date, you are only eligible for store credit. You have the option to return your items in-store or by shipping them back to us, however, a return shipping fee may be applied for the latter option. The return shipping fee will be waived for defective items or returns made due to errors on our part. To initiate a return or exchange, please reach out to us for assistance. Refunds can only be made in the original payment method. Unfortunately, returns made after 60 days will not be accepted. Your refund will be processed after we receive your returned parcel, which can take up to 4 weeks depending on shipping time and financial institution processing.
Defective items are those with a manufacturing defect that is evident before opening the packaging, or items that have been damaged during shipping. Items that have been damaged by the user, such as from dry firing, are not considered defects. Scratches and other cosmetic defects are evaluated on an individual basis.
It is recommended that you reach out directly to the manufacturer to replace defective items that are covered under their warranty or to have defects verified by the manufacturer. For some products, the manufacturer may require that you, the purchaser, handle the warranty process directly with them. We can assist in facilitating communication between you and the manufacturer, however, we are not able to participate in the warranty process as per the manufacturer's request.
You may exchange your items provided that they are in unopened and unused condition. Exchanges can be made up to 60 days after the purchase date for in-store and click-and-collect orders, or shipping date for online orders. Exchanges are subject to item availability; you may not be able to exchange items that have been discontinued.
We understand that sometimes you may need to return a product you have purchased from us. That's why we have a clear and transparent restocking fee policy in place to ensure that the process is as smooth and straightforward as possible for you.
Before fulfillment, there is no restocking fee. This means that if you decide to return a product before it has been fulfilled, you will not incur any additional charges.
However, after fulfillment and before the item has been shipped or picked up, there is a 5 percent restocking fee. This fee is imposed to cover the costs of processing and restocking the returned product.
Once the item has been shipped or picked up, the restocking fee increases to 10 percent. This fee reflects the fact that the product has left our warehouse and is on its way to you, and therefore, the cost of processing a return is higher.
Please note that there may be some exceptions to our restocking fee policy, and in these cases, we will do our best to provide a solution that works for both parties. What is outlined in this article is our restocking fee policy, not our refund policy. To see if your item qualifies for a refund or exchange, please refer to the relevant section of our frequently asked questions. If you have any questions about our restocking fee policy or a specific situation, please don't hesitate to contact our customer support team.
If the product is not currently listed on our website, contact us via phone or email, and we may be able to place a custom order. This is typically a service we offer customers who have established a relationship with us.
Cancelling special order items depends on the product. In most cases canceling a special order is not a problem.
- A 10 percent restocking fee will be charged if the order has been fulfilled.
- A 5 percent admin fee will apply to backorders cancelled within 8 weeks.
Some products such as custom made or made-to-order bows cannot be cancelled. Many of these items are brought in from overseas or made specially by the manufacturer upon an order being placed
Arrow wraps are completely optional. We like using them because it makes replacing vanes very easy. We love experimenting with different combinations so arrow wraps allow us to remove vanes without damaging the arrow shaft. They have no impact on accuracy.
We have a pro shop located in Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
- 105 Vanderhoof Ave #5, Toronto, ON, M4G 2H7
- National Toll Free - 1 888 217-7549
- Greater Toronto Area - 647 749-9164
All bows purchased at Canada Archery Online come with free fitting, tuning and setup upon request. We will work with you to make sure you get a bow that fits you properly. One of our missions is to never pressure customers into buying unsuitable products and we take extra steps to special order the exact bow required if necessary
We will never let a customer walk away with a bow that does not fit them properly. Proper fitting equipment is key to the customers enjoyment of archery.
We do work on bows and archery equipment not purchased at Canada Archery Online at our technician's discretion.
When we begin work on a bow it becomes our responsibility to fix it.
If you have concerns you may have been sold a damaged or incorrect piece of archery equipment from another retailer. Please feel free to stop by and we can give you our advice.
We offer continued adivce, help and tuning for any customers that have purchased archery products from us.
We are currently in the process of setting up a six lane, 20 yard, certified archery range.
The range will be used for recreational shooting, classes, seminars and tournaments.We will have more information regarding our archery range when it's construction has been completed.
Due to Canada Archery Online being an authorized dealer with all brands we handle, we currently do not offer price matching. This is because we already offer the lowest price allowed by the manufactures. We do not mark up our products beyond the pricing structure given to us.
Always ensure you are buying from an authorized dealer and try to support your local shop. All professional archery dealers will have.
- A fixed address
- A proper phone number attached to the address.
- Be able to be verified by the brand or supplier of the products in which they sell.
A fixed address, shop and phone number are important aspects especially when buying bows and crossbows. Virtually all bow manufactures require you to have a physical store. All major brands do not allow shipping compound bows and do not allow online sales. Buying from dealers who are not authorized typically results in fraud, buying broken equipment and loss of money for the customer. We highly encourage all archers to buy from their authorized local archery dealer.
If you find an archery "dealer" without a fixed address, proper phone number, and can't verify them with manufactures or suppliers. Chances are they are selling unauthorized products. Sadly this is a common problem in the archery industry.
Please be aware and always support your local archery pro shops.