Frequently Asked Questions
Compound archery is a style of archery that uses compound bows. Compound Bows are significantly different from recurve ones in several different ways.
Compound bows use a multi-string & cable design that attaches to proprietary cams. These cams are the "wheels" you see at the top and bottom of a compound bow and are connected to the limbs. Compound bows also come with cable guards, cable stops and are machined to be used with arrows rests and sights.
The cam and riser design will generally be the most significant difference between modern compound bows. The shape, design and build quality of the cam will heavily influence the feel and speed of the bow. Cams come with different options for adjustments. Some have a wide range of adjustments; others require cams machined specifically for the size of the archer or offer separate mods that can be attached.
Some compound bows allow a vast range of adjustments to draw length and weight. Others, such as higher end target compound bows, will offer fewer adjustments and assume the archer knows their exact measurements prior to purchasing.
Compound bows come in two major types: target and hunting. Both require the use of an arrow rest and sights.
Hunting compound bows are often shorter axel to axel bows that offer higher speeds, more let-off and, higher draw weights. Hunting bows increased speeds and lower holding weight aid Hunters in holding their bow at full draw longer, with less arc and more kinetic energy on their shot. Hunting bows come in a wide range of muted colours and camo patterns. They do not come in brighter, more vibrant target colours.
Target compound bows are longer axel to axel, offer a smoother draw, slightly slower speed, more holding weight and, more stability. Having a higher holding weight and better stability aid target bows in helping the archer be significantly more consistent shot to shot. Target bows also come in a larger range of colours without camo options.
We recommend choosing a type of bow that best suits the style of archery you plan to do. We also recommend purchasing a bow with a wide range of adjustments as a beginner. This means you can slowly increase your draw weight without buying a new bow, and it also means you can fine tune your draw length until you find one that fits you perfectly.
Olympic recurve archery is the most popular form of competition archery performed worldwide. Olympic Recurve is the modern target version of a classic recurve bow, and heavily popularized by the Olympics and World Archery competitions.
Olympic Recurve bows come as risers and limbs as separate pieces. The risers are machined aluminum or carbon fibre. Limbs come in various styles, most using foam, graphene or wood sandwiched in carbon or fibreglass.
Both risers and limbs will come designed to fit with each other using the ILF (Interntional Limb Fitting) or Formula (Hoyt) systems. It is important to note that Formula Limbs will not fit into an ILF Riser, and ILF Limbs will not fit into a Formula riser. These systems are designed to match each other and are not cross-compatible.
ILF is the most popular system with a larger range of options. Formula is proprietary to Hoyt and is most often seen on Hoyt products exclusively.
Risers and limbs also come in a variety of different sizes. Risers can come in 23, 25 or 27 inches in length. In comparison, limbs come in short, medium and, long. The combination of these two sizes dictates the length of your bow.
A professional best decides the size of riser and limbs you need at your local pro shop. 25 inch risers and medium limbs are often the most used combination, but it depends on your height and draw length. Purchasing a bow not correctly fit can result in reduced scores, not utilizing the equipment to its full potential and other fitting related issues.
All Olympic setups are designed to be used with a clicker, recurve sight, finger sling, string, front & rear stabilizers and, arrow rest.
We recommend consulting a local pro shop to be correctly set up and fit. Olympic recurve archery is not a sport you can setup yourself as a complete beginner.
Traditional archery is the style of archery most often seen in paintings, movies and other media.
Traditional recurve bows are made out of wood or synthetic materials and come in one piece construction or as a takedown variant. They are designed to be shot "bare" or without accessories.
One piece bows cannot be disassembled and come made to specific specifications by the bowyer. The draw weight of a one piece bow is often partially dependent on the archer's draw length combined with the overall size of the bow.
Takedown bows come with a riser that can have limbs attached or removed. These are often very popular as they allow the archer to change their limbs to different poundages while having the extra convenience of portability. Takedown limbs and risers may be sold as a kit or as seperate pieces of equipment. They often use their own mounting system and do not conform to ILF standards, and this means there is often limited ability to use two different brands in combination.
It is essential to note the arrow is used with a traditional bow. Traditional bows do not use arrows with synthetic vanes designed for Olympic style recurve or Compound archery. Arrows setup for traditional archery use feathers or very particular vanes intended for this style of archery, such as "AAE Trad vanes". Due to the fact the arrow is being shot without a rest, and the fletching will come in contact with the riser, standard synthetic vanes will not work and cause errant arrow flight.
Many people believe they need to use wooden arrows with traditional bows. This is not the case. There are now a wide range of carbon arrow options that work with and are designed for traditional bows. Wooden arrows are not recommended unless you can guarantee the manufacturer's quality.
Traditional bows are considered the most "pure" form of archery. They can also be very challenging to master without any accessories or assistance.
We recommend all beginners start with a take down traditional bow, this leaves the archer with the ability to change limbs and increase draw weight as they become stronger. A traditional takedown bow is also an excellent entry level piece of equipment because it is a gateway into all types of recurve archery, including Olympic and Barebow.
One of the most common mistakes when beginners purchase their first bow is buying the wrong hand.
- A right handed bow means the bow is held in your left hand and the string is pulled with your right hand. This allows the string to align with your right eye.
- A left handed bow means the bow is held in your right hand and the string is pulled with your left hand. Allowing the string to align with your left eye.
The handedness of the bow is in relation to the hand/arm that draws the string, not the hand that holds the bow.
Another common misconception is people feel they should be buying a bow that allows them to pull with their dominant hand.
In reality you want to purchase a bow that corresponds to your eye dominance. This allows you to have better accuracy and an easier time shooting with both eyes open.
Most people who are right handed will be right eye dominant, and most people who are left handed will be left eye dominant. However this is just a general rule.
Of every 10 bows we sell and setup for customers, at least one will be opposite eye dominant. Meaning they will be right handed but their dominant eye is their left eye.
We always recommend purchasing a bow based on your eye dominance. It may feel awkward at first but in the long run it will pay off significantly.
There are easy tesats you can do to find out your eye dominance. A simple search on youtube for "archery eye dominance test" will result in a simple test youy can do in about 10 secods to figure it out. If you come to our pro shop we will always do it for you prior to purchasing your first bow.
A lot of people think they need to buy a string based on the length of their previous string or their bow length while it is strung. This is not the case. Bow sizes and string lengths are based on a standard known as AMO. AMO is a standardized set of measurements for archery bows, strings and equipment.
For example, if your bow has an AMO length of 60 inches, when strung it will typically be 57 inches due to the curve in the bow limbs and the string it uses will also be 57 inches in length.
The string you need for your bow will typically be 3 to 4 inches shorter than your bow's unstrung length, depending on the bow's type.
When purchasing a bowstring, string manufacturers have already taken it into account. When purchasing a bowstring, you want to match the two AMO sizes. If it is labelled as 60 inch AMO bowstring it means it fits a 60 inch AMO bow, which means the string itself will be around 57 inches.
For example, if you purchase a 60" AMO Samick Sage, you can buy a 60 inch AMO string, and it will fit your bow. The string itself will be 57 inches which is what fits a 60 inch AMO bow
Bowstring will always be listed by AMO length, not actual string length, which leads to confusion among new archers. If you were to measure your recurve string at 57 inch and buy an AMO 57 string, the AMO 57 string would be three inches shorter at 54 inches in total length.
Almost all traditional recurve bows sold by Canada Archery will have the AMO length listed on the box or limbs. For Olympic Recurve equipment, you will typically already know the AMO length of your bow, which is usually between 64 and 70 inches long. This depends on how long your riser is bolt to bolt, in combination with if you have chosen to use short, medium or long limbs. It can be tricky for custom-made bows unless the bow maker gives you the AMO length. Normally, you would measure the old string that came with the bow and add 3 to 3.5 inches to get its AMO size.
We encourage you to mail us if you have trouble before purchasing to avoid buying the wrong string.
At Canada Archery, we recommend purchasing a draw weight you feel comfortable shooting repeatedly.
We have many customers who come in and want to purchase the heaviest draw weight bow they can for the money. We highly recommend against this until you are a more experienced archer.
Archery is a skill that takes form, technique, and time to master. You want to purchase a bow based on what you feel you can pull back and shoot at least fifty times in a row without becoming fatigued. Just because you may see a particular hunter, Olympian, or influencer pulling back an 80lb compound bow doesn't mean you should be doing the same as a beginner.
Let us use weight lifting as an example. If you have never weight trained before, you wouldn't go out and buy 90lb non-adjustable dumbbells or try to squat 400lb on your first attempt. You need to build your body, form, and technique before progressing. Otherwise, your form will suffer, and in archery, your accuracy will never get better. You will never progress if you are exhausted, and your arms are burning after pulling your bow a few times.
This means you need a plan to slowly improve your form and increase the draw weight of your bow over time.
We recommend compound archers start with an adjustable cam bow that can go down to around 50lbs but allow increased weight over time as your form becomes better. Very high draw weight bows are used by hunters who shoot one or two arrows in an entire day. As a beginner or while shooting tournaments, nobody is shooting hunting weights.
We recommend starting at 20 or 25 pounds for new recurve archers since they are holding more weight than a compound bow while at full draw. Once you gain experience and form, you can easily swap out limbs for higher draw weight.
One thing we hate to see is someone buy a brand new bow, get highly excited then realize they are too tired to practice for even half an hour.
Your draw length is how far your bow is drawn back. This will typically dictate what size bow you buy or how your compound bow is adjusted for optimal string angel and anchor positioning.
A simple way to find a rough estimate of your draw length is as follows.
While within arm distance from a wall.
1. Stand your your feet shoulder width apart.
2. Stick your arms out and make a T shape with your body.
3. Make a fist with the hand that will hold the bow (left hand for righ handed bow, right hand for left handed bow).
4. Shuffle towards the wall and place the fist on the wall.
5. Now look over your shoulder down the length of your arm.
6. Have someone measure from the wall to the corner of your mouth.
This is a rough estimate on finding out your draw length. It is important to never overestimate your draw length. What matters most is accuracy of the measurement, not how long your draw length is.
John Dudley from Nock On archery has a good video about finding out your rough draw length as a beginner.
Draw length will determine what compound bow you buy and how it is adjusted. For recurve archers it helps give you an idea on the length of bow you can purchase.
Brace height is the distance between your string while at rest and the deepest part of your riser handle.
Brace height is an essential part of tuning and adjusting any recurve bow. Brace Height is adjusted by adding or subtracting twists from your string, which will close or increase the gap between the bowstring and the throat of your riser.
The brace height can be different depending on your recurve archery style. Most manufacturers will have documentation on their recommended brace height.
It is always important to use a T square to check your brace height before shooting.
Adding twists to a string will shorten the length of the bowstring, which makes the limbs bend more, increasing the brace height. Removing twists from the bowstring adds length and relaxes the limbs, drawing the string closer.
Brace Height in compound archery is set from the factory and indicated on the manufacturers' specification sheet. Shorter brace heights are seen on "speed bows" and more extended brace heights on tournament bows. Shorter brace heights increase the speed and aggression of a bow, while a longer brace height makes the bow more stable, less aggressive, and slightly slower.
Compound bows will typically have two different styles of sights—each with its variations.
Target sights are typically those used exclusively for tournament and target style archery. They often do not come with scopes, have dovetail style mounting bar systems, and are designed to be easily adjustable at the cost of durability. Longer sight bars mean you can fine tune the optimal distance the scope will sit away from your peep to ensure a perfect sight picture. Target sights will also have finer micro-adjustments and are designed to be adjusted on the fly.
Hunting compound sights most oftenb come with a permanent X-frame style mount for a more robust and durable package. Some higher-end hunting sights will also offer an optional dovetail bar system. Most hunting sights will come with a scope. Depending on the sight you purchased, the scope may or may not be included or removable.
Hunting scopes are often designed to house multiple pins, unlike target sights, and have more limited adjustments than those intended for target setups.
Many hunting sights are designed to be setup once and not adjusted further until you change your equipment. This means many models do not offer the same fine micro adjusts as their target equivalent. Sights with multiple pins will also require the user to adjust each pin individually for specific distances.
It is advised to use a sight that fits your particular need. If you plan to hunt, buy a hunting sight. If you plan to shoot tournaments, a target one.
Target sights are not intended to hunt with as their durability and size make them less appealing to bring into the woods, a tree stand or blind.
The scope you purchase for target sights will typically be smaller in diameter and have only one pin, sticker dot or aiming reticle. This makes shots taken at different distances more time consuming and less consistent than a hunting sight with multiple pins dialed into specific distances beforehand.
Some archers shoot Hunting sights in tournaments but only in "hunter" divisions.
Recurve Sights are designed almost exclusively for Olympic Style ILF or Grand Prix risers.
It is not advised to try and add a sight to a wooden riser or any traditional style bow. Traditional bows are designed to be shot bare, which means without accessories. Aiming with a traditional bow can be done in three ways. Instinctive (like throwing a baseball), string walking, or gap shooting.
For Olympic-style recurve archery, you will need a sight. Recurve sights require small scopes or apertures and offer significant fine adjustments.
Unlike compound target sights, most recurve sights will come with a scope/aperture included.
The price difference will typically dictate the overall adjustability of the sight, the consistency of its distances, and overall build quality.
If you are a complete beginner, we advise saving your money and purchasing a moderately priced target sight. Although the flagship target sights may be more durable and consistent, you will notice no difference in your scores until you become more experienced. Only once you reach a higher level of archery will the fine adjustments, increased micro-adjustability, and other options be noticeable.
Peeps are accessories that fit into the bowstring of a compound bow. The purpose of a peep is to allow you to more accurately aim your bow by splitting the string and giving you a clear sight picture directly down the middle. While at full draw, the peep should align and "halo" the outside diameter of your scope. Allowing you as an archer to know the alignment of your string is exactly in line with the scope on your sight.
Peeps typically come in a few varieties. Designed for both hunting and target shooting the peep you decide to choose will be determined by what you want to do with it.
Hunting peeps are normally without magnification or significant adjustability, and they are commonly sold in specific aperture sizes. You choose the aperture size of the peep so it perfectly halos your scope while at full draw.
Target peeps offer a more comprehensive range of adjustments. Many target peeps allow the addition of clarifiers, verifiers, and aperture sizes.
Clarifiers are small pieces of optical glass that can be used in the peep to clear up the sight picture of your scope while using a powered lens. Verifiers are used to clear up the overall sight picture and pins. Typically verifiers are used most often for those who require glasses. Apertures increase or reduce the inside diameter of your peep so it can perfectly encircle your scope housing.
Peep kits, such as the Hamskea Insight kit or Specialty Archery Podium Peep kit, will come with various apertures, clarifiers, and the peeps themselves. These are great all-around options for archers who enjoy experimenting. Flagship peeps and kits can be used for both hunting and target archery.
It is rare for Hunters to use a clarifier as these pieces of glass are used in conjunction with a powered lens located within the scope. Using a powered lens is illegal for hunting in most of North America.
Peeps also come in at least two different string angles, which refers to the grooves machined into the peep that hold it into place on the bowstring. Some higher-end peeps will have the grooves machined into them for all string angles, while lower or mid-range peeps will need to be purchased for the archer's exact string angle.
The usual angles are 37/45 degrees. The degree you need will depend on the bow you are shooting and your draw length. Each peep manufacturer will have charts you can follow to determine which you need to use. Most archers will be fine with 37 degrees, but those with shorter draw lengths and taller bows will need 45 or more. Check the manufacturer's website to view their charts before purchasing.
As the name states, stabilizers are pieces of equipment used to stabilize your bow while at full draw. They also have the added advantage of lowering the vibration and shock after a shot.
Stabilizers are made out of carbon and come in different lengths, sizes, and threads. Choosing a stabilizer that best suits your needs as an archer is essential.
Target archers use long stabilizers in front of their bow, with shorter side rods acting as a counterbalance. These side rods may be located pointing backward on both sides using a V-bar mount or off to one side using an offset mount. Weights are typically added to the ends of these stabilizers to help reduce pin float while at full draw.
Hunters use shorter stabilizers both in front of their bow and sometimes off to one side. The shorter length makes it easier to maneuver in the woods or hunting environments while still providing significant benefits over shooting bare.
Some target archers shoot V-bars, which allow them to have one stabilizer in the front and two side rods pointing backward on both sides. Others use only a single back rod with an offset mount.
While tuning your stabilizer setup, you may need quick disconnects, offset mounts, and V-Bar mounts. These attach to your bow and allow the easy removal of your stabilizer with the added benefit of fine-tuning the angle they sit at.
When tuning your stabilizer setup, the goal is to choose weights and angles for each stabilizer that allows your bow to sit perfectly still and level while at full draw. Compound archers should pay attention to the level in their scope and ensure it remains level while having no torque on the bow's handle. If it doesn't, adjust the stabilizer weight and angles until it does.
It is important to remember changing your stabilizer setup once your bow is fully tuned may change the tune of the bow and require you to adjust it again. We recommend ensuring your stabilizer setup is perfect before fully tuning your bow.
Recurve clickers are accessories that attach to the riser or limb of a recurve bow. A clicker helps with the timing of the archers shot by clicking at the exact moment they should release their arrow. Since a recurve bow changes its draw weight the more it has been drawn back, the clicker helps with consistency and muscle memory.
Clickers may attach to the limb or riser of a recurve bow, depending on the type of clicker purchased. Virtually all modern clickers attach to the archers' riser and are designed to come into contact with the clicker plate that comes on modern ILF and Grand Prix bows. Only traditional archers will use clickers that attach to their bow's top limb since traditional bows do not come with clicker plates or mounting options for modern clickers.
With modern target archery and clickers mounted to the riser, the clicker rests on the arrow, and as the bow is drawn back, the moment it exceeds the length of the arrow, it slams down, contacting the clicker plate. This action creates the "click" sound, which indicates you are at optimal release. Using a riser mounted clicker requires your arrows to be cut to the perfect length, often just before the front of the riser. Arrows that are too long will cause your clicker to remain rested on the arrow. Arrows that are too short mean the clicker will go off before you are at your optimal draw length.
Limb mounted clickers are used by traditional archers. Since traditional bows do not come with clicker plates or mounting options, clickers are sold that attach to the top limb of the bow. They serve the same purpose as riser mounted clickers, but they work slightly differently. With a limb mounted clicker, it activates when you get to a specific draw length and has nothing to do with the arrow. It is adjusted by increasing or reducing the length of the cable that attaches from your string to your clicker. It is essential while setting up a limb mounted clicker, you are at full draw, with an arrow nocked, while taking measurements for the length of the clicker cable.
Traditional archers can become proficient without using a clicker, but Olympic style target archers cannot. A clicker is an essential accessory for all aspiring target archers.
Quivers hold arrows, but the style of quiver you choose is essential.
Quivers come in the following styles: field quiver, target quiver, bow mounted quiver, pocket quiver, and back quiver.
Field Quiver - field quivers work with a belt and rest on the archer's hip. These styles of quivers are the most popular in target archery. Field quivers are often slim in design and hold your arrows so they are pointing in a backward direction. This makes accessing your arrows easier while also aiding in safety. If you were to trip and fall, arrows pointing backwards are less likely to result in an injury.
Target Quiver - target quivers are similar to field quivers with a few exceptions. Although they sit on your hip, they are often slightly larger with extra pockets. They also force your arrows to point forward. Both field and target quivers are used exclusively for archery practice and tournament settings.
Bow Mounted Quiver - bow mounted quivers are designed for hunting. They come in a wide variety of mounting options. Most are also compatible with the storage of broadheads and are an essential part of any hunter's kit. Bow mounted quivers exist for both traditional archers and compound archers, although they will be made specifically for that style of archery. They secure the arrow both at the top and toward the bottom and are very secure. Attaching to the bow allows easy maneuvering while hunting without the added noise of arrows rattling in a hip or back quiver.
Back Quiver - back quivers are used most by traditional archers for practice and tournaments who find hip quivers too cumbersome or not appealing. Back quivers are mainly an aesthetic choice and come with various drawbacks. Including not being able to see the arrow you plan to nock before pulling it from the quiver and potential safety risks if you were to trip and fall. Some compound archers who do huge outdoor events which comprise many target spread out over a large area will even use backpacks as makeshift quivers due to the ease of transporting the arrows. It is not recommended to ever use a back quiver for hunting or with broadheads.
Pocket Quivers - pocket quivers sit in the back pocket of your pants, often jeans and are designed to be a very slim and sleek way of holding a few arrows. Pocket quivers are the least popular and not often used outside of practice. They have limited capacity, can often need breaking in and come with a variety of risks if you were to trip and fall. Mainly used by traditional archers, a pocket quiver may be a great way to get practicing quickly but are not recommended for hunting or tournament settings. With their limited capacity and lack of ability to hold broadheads, these quivers are the most limited.
It is essential to understand what type of archery you plan to take part in and buy a quiver that will work best.
Finger and wrist slings are optional accessories used in compound and recurve archery.
Due to the way you grip the handle of a bow by not applying any finger pressure, some archers feel more confident while using a sling. The sling ensures that you will not drop your bow after the shot.
A sling often helps your mind realize it shouldn't immediately grip the riser of the bow when the shot has been fired, giving you a more relaxed release, helping improve accuracy for some archers.
Finger slings are widely used in Olympic style recurve archery. Since Olympic style target shooting uses larger bows that tend to swing forward after a shot. A finger slings helps with a smooth follow-through and offers security for the bow.
Wrist slings are commonly seen in compound archery. However, since compound bows release an arrow so quickly, and the bows are significantly shorter than recurve ones, many archers opt not to use a wrist or finger sling.
We recommend all new archers start with a finger or wrist sling, depending on the style of archery you plan to perform. Once a compound archer becomes confident in their grip and hand placement, they can opt to forgo the option of a wrist sling. Finger slings are recommended for all archers competing in target style recurve archery.
We offer $3 to $5 letter mail shipping for small items under $30 as a convenience to our customers. Due to Canada Post's regulations no version of letter mail within that price range comes with tracking.
We strongly recommend you use a shipping option with tracking if the saftey of your item is priority.
If you would like your orders combined email us within 30min of placing your first order or add it to the notes of your second order.
We accept returns and exchanges on items that are unused and in original packaging with the following exceptions:
- Complete bows
- Target faces and target butts
- Strings, nose buttons, kisser buttons, nock points, or any item that may come into contact with the user’s face
- Items that are discontinued or on clearance
- Any custom or made-to-order items
These items may pose a safety hazard if resold and we do not sell used products at this time. Returns or exchanges will not be accepted unless the item is defective. If your item is deflective or arrived broken, please read the "defective" section of this policy.
No returns on any item marked “special order item”, unless the item is defective.
Returns for in-store purchases and click-and-collect purchases
You may return your items within 60 days of purchase. Returns made within 30 days are eligible for refund or store credit; returns made between 31 to 60 days are only eligible for store credit. You must return your items in store. A refund or store credit will be issued to you in the original amount paid. Refunds can only be issued in the original form of payment. Returns over 60 days are not eligible for refund or store credit.
Returns for online purchases
You may return or exchange your items within 60 days of the shipping date. Returns made within 30 days are eligible for refund or store credit; returns made between 31 to 60 days are only eligible for store credit. You may return your items in store. You may also return your items by shipping them back to us. Return shipping fee will be applied to a return shipping label. Shipping fee is waived for returns of defective items or due to errors on our end. Please contact us to set up a return or exchange. Refunds can only be issued in the original form of payment. Returns over 60 days are not accepted.
A refund is only applied after your return parcel has been received by us. Processing time can be up to 4 weeks depending on shipping time and financial institutions’ processing time.
You may exchange your items provided that they are in unopened and unused condition. Exchanges can be made up to 60 days after purchase date for in-store and click-and-collect orders, or shipping date for online orders. Exchanges are subject to item availability; you may not be able to exchange items that have been discontinued.
Defective items are items that have a manufacturer defect out of the packaging, or items that may have been damaged in shipping. Any damages incurred by the user, such as damages as a result of dry firing, are not considered defects.
Cosmetic defects such as scratches are assessed on a case-by-case basis.
Items covered under warranty
You are encouraged to contact the manufacturer directly to replace defective items that are covered under manufacturer warranty, or for defects that need to be verified by the manufacturer.
A 10% restocking fee applies to returns of items in any online and click-and-collect order that has been fully fulfilled, unless there is a defect or an error on our end.
A 10% restocking fee applies to click-and-collect orders that have not been picked up 30 days after fulfillment.
We can ship to virtually any address in the world. Note that there are shipping restrictions on certain products. These restrictions apply to the shipping of compound bows, risers, limbs, packages, traditional bows, arrows and other items outside of Canada.
When you place an order, we will estimate shipping and delivery dates for you based on the availability of your items and the shipping options you choose. Depending on the shipping provider you choose, shipping date estimates may appear on the shipping quotes page.
Please also note that the shipping rates for many items we sell are weight-based. The weight of any such item can be found on its detail page. To reflect the policies of the shipping companies we use, all weights will be rounded up to the next full pound.
In some cases, for particular items, including special order products, a 10% restocking fee applies. The restocking fee can be reimbursed on any following order you make with Canada Archery Online. Please contact us to make sure you get the fee reimbursed on following orders.
If the product is not currently listed on our website, contact us via phone or email, and we may be able to place a custom order.
Canceling special order items depends on the product. In most cases canceling a special order is not a problem. A 10 percent restocking fee may apply but will be reimbursed upon any following purchases you make with Canada Archery Online.
Some products such as custom made or made-to-order bows cannot be canceled. Many of these items are brought in from overseas or made specially by the manufacturer upon an order being placed
Arrow wraps are completely optional. We like using them because it makes replacing vanes very easy. We love experimenting with different combinations so arrow wraps allow us to remove vanes without damaging the arrow shaft. They have no impact on accuracy.
All bows purchased at Canada Archery Online come with free fitting, tuning and setup upon request. We will work with you to make sure you get a bow that fits you properly. One of our missions is to never pressure customers into buying unsuitable products and we take extra steps to special order the exact bow required if necessary
We will never let a customer walk away with a bow that does not fit them properly. Proper fitting equipment is key to the customers enjoyment of archery.
As a typical rule of thumb we do not. It is our experience that many people buy mass produced bows from large big box stores. These bows often come damaged or out of spec. Sometimes people are even sold a piece of equipment completely wrong for their body type, dominant eye, arm length and so forth.
When we begin work on a bow it becomes our responsibility to fix it.
If you have concerns you may have been sold a damaged or incorrect piece of archery equipment. Please feel free to stop by and we can give you our advice.
We offer continued adivce, help and tuning for any customers that have purchased archery products from us.
We are currently in the process of setting up a six lane, 20 yard, certified archery range.
The range will be used for recreational shooting, classes, seminars and tournaments.We will have more information regarding our archery range when it's construction has been completed.
Due to Canada Archery Online being an authorized dealer with all brands we handle, we currently do not offer price matching. This is because we already offer the lowest price allowed by the manufactures. We do not mark up our products beyond the pricing structure given to us.
Always ensure you are buying from an authorized dealer and try to support your local shop. All professional archery dealers will have.
- A fixed address
- A proper phone number attached to the address.
- Be able to be verified by the brand or supplier of the products in which they sell.
Always ensure you are buying from an authorized dealer and try to support your local shop. All professional archery dealers will have.
- A fixed address
- A proper phone number attached to the address.
- Be able to be verified by the brand or supplier of the products in which they sell.
fixed address, shop and phone number are important aspects especially
when buying bows and crossbows. Virtually all bow manufactures require
you to have a physical store. All major brands do not allow shipping compound bows and do not allow online sales.
Buying from dealers who are not authorized typically results in fraud,
buying broken equipment and loss of money for the customer. We highly
encourage all archers to buy from their authorized local archery dealer.
If you find an archery "dealer" without a fixed address, proper phone number, and can't verify them with manufactures or suppliers. Chances are they are selling unauthorized products. Sadly this is a common problem in the archery industry.
Please be aware and always support your local archery pro shops.